Transmission Crossmember

I didn't take many pictures of this but the process was pretty straight forward. I set the transmission height where I wanted it.  This ties back to the engine angle.  And then I supported it with a screw type jack stand to fine tune the height.

Materials:
1.5" square X 0.120" wall steel tubing
Neoprene Spring Rubber; McMaster PN:  8630K118 70A Durometer
Qty-2, 7/16-18 X 1-3/4L Bolts
Qty-2 - 7/16 Flat Washers
Qty-2 - 7/16 Lock Washer
Anti seize to suit
Rust proofing paint

To fab the cross member I first started at the mounting points on the transmission and  drilled to clearance holes for 7/16 bolts on the transmission side and clearance holes for a socket on the road side.  I then cut a strip of the neoprene to act as my damper material that was 1 inch thick , 1.5 inches wide and 6 inches long. I drilled two clearance holes in the rubber for the hardware to pas through, but kept them tight.

I then worked toward the driver side.  I made a hard angle up to provide clearance underneath for the exhaust.  I then ran it flat to the top of the driver side frame, leaving about a quarter inch gap.

For the passenger side, I did the same.  I was only able to take the tube to the underside of the frame rail though.

After the basic structure was there, I cut a clearance for the nose cone saver on the Orion transfer case.  I then capped the cut out to make a a solid structure again, using 1.5"wide at 1/8" thick material.

To mount to the frame, I first bolted it to the transmission.  Then I clamped a piece of 4" X 4" X 1/8" angle to the inside of the drivers side frame, and the outside of the passenger side frame.  I tack welded it to the crossmember and drilled through holes into the angle and through both sides of the frame rail.  I then through bolted everything using 1/2-13 X 2-3/4" Grade 8 hardware and locking nuts.  After fit was confirmed I removed and painted using KBS rust seal..

Battery Box

I decided I wasn't going to install a heater in the FJ40.  So I decided to locate the battery box in the space left by the heater core.

Using the NAPA battery that came with it when I bought it, I cut a rectanle that fit snug around it as the base.

After that was welded, I added two tabs that I would bolt into the heater core mounting location.

I then mounted it into location and bent a piece of 1-1/2 X 1/8" flat stock to fit the inner fender profile.

 Mount it all in place and load test it with a few good stomps.

I also cut a piece of 18 gauge galvanized sheet that I had laying around to fill the hole.  The top tie down is a piece of 3" X 3" X 1/8" steel angle that I slotted and bolted to one of the upper heater core mounting holes.  Everything is painted with KBS rust stopper.